Speaking for his friend and colleague, Nigel Gan, director of marketing and communications at The RuMa, says, "Tyson isn't trying to replicate local dishes or to bastardise traditional flavours, which Malaysians take so much pride in. What you will discover at ATAS are new, inspiring combinations of hand-picked, heirloom or locally harvested produce."
Hence the pai tee stuffed with crème fraiche, chives and caviar from Tanjung Malim, or Tyson's take on miang kham aka miniature salad bites. Easily deployed as an elven blanket, the versatile betel leaf is tucked around blue tiger prawns, coconut sambal and a cross section of kaffir lime. Acidity, bitterness and char comingle in an unexpected flavour bomb that leaves me reeling.
Anyone who thinks that size does matter need only sample this snack to denounce the cliché.