Concubine

A former opium den, gambling parlour and brothel, Concubine pulses with energy at the heart of Chinatown, reminding us that restoration projects are a worthwhile endeavour. Age-worn walls and exposed wooden beams whisper the provenance of the place, which was rebuilt using upcycled materials; such elements are balanced by modern touches such as turquoise tiles, bright yellow windowpanes, and pink neon signs. Somewhat sedate during lunch hour, the seductive establishment experiences a 180-degree transformation after nightfall—you’ll be lucky to find space to sit, let alone stand. Our advice? Book an early dinner downstairs before climbing the creaky staircase for cocktails at the bar. Concubine might look to the past conceptually, but its dishes and drinks speak of a future where fusion is king. From Cheeseburger Gyozas to Soft-Shell Crab Baos and Bunga Kantan-laced gin and tonics, the bites and beverages here boost our affinity for the New Chinatown.

TATLER TIP

Kwai Chai Hong, an alleyway just around the corner, is decked out with colourful street art, making it a prime spot for photo shoots.