Bâtard

It takes a special operation to open a restaurant inside a wine store in a largely residential neighbourhood, featuring a wine list as long as the tasting menu is succinct. Bâtard ticks all of these boxes and more, nailing the wine restaurant experience with aplomb, and making it one of the most in-demand tables in town. The menu changes frequently, but is always centred around ease of pairing: the chawanmushi with maitake and pickled shimeji bursts with umami and is girded by a 2011 sémillon from Château Haut-Brion, while the signature roast local chicken with warm pilaf rice is a masterclass in cooking bird. The service is extremely well-drilled and attentive, making diners feel thoroughly cared for.

Tatler Tip

Save room for the cheese board, where over a dozen options are available at any one time.