Initially conceived as a modern Parisian bistro, Ami seems to have taken a more sylvan, forest theme of late. Despite this, highlights are more seafood-forward, including a lobster bisque jelly and snow crab tartare that oozes bright orange Japanese egg yolk when pierced with a spoon, and juicy seared scallop with a silky, comforting dashi beurre blanc. For some dishes, details could be controlled better—for instance, the foie gras and fig amuse bouche sat on a brioche that was slightly too dry. The terrace beckons to diners during the cooler months, while the bar makes postprandial lounging a must.

Signature Dishes

• Hand-cut heritage beef tartare
• Blood duck breast
• Rum baba, mango

Tatler Tip

Whisky flights are available for those who want a crash course into the world of malts or a reasonably priced tasting of multiple expressions.