Thai restaurants in Hong Kong are often much of a muchness, perennially offering the same old familiar dishes and flavours. While these places are crowd-pleasers for a reason, that’s what really makes David Thompson’s Aaharn so exciting, with its diverse menu of less-commonly-seen modern Thai cuisine packed with vibrant, fully rounded flavours, all served within the stylish, historic surroundings of Tai Kwun. Though a few dishes on our latest visit were a little under-seasoned and tame in terms of spicing, there was still plenty of savour—like the deep-fried perch with tamarind, chilli, fried basil leaves and garlic flakes, with its moreish sticky-sweet crispy exterior giving way to flakes of perfectly cooked fish, or the canapé of crispy noodles with crab, beansprouts and pickled garlic that packs a winning balance of different textures and flavours in one exciting bite. The wine list covers all bases well, with plenty of affordable bottles and by-the-glass options. Service is friendly and knowledgeable, although a little difficult to get hold of once the restaurant becomes busier. The dark, moody interior, with its colourful splashes of contemporary art, is also a welcome change from the usual Thai restaurant stereotypes. With its distinctive menu of interesting dishes that burst with complexity of flavour, Aaharn really does stand out from the pack.

What to order

• The canapé of crispy noodles with crab, beansprouts and pickled garlic is an enticing start to your meal, with a winning balance of different textures and flavours delivered in one exciting bite.
• The deep-fried perch with tamarind and chilli is expertly cooked, with a crispy sticky-sweet exterior and tender flakes of fish within; fried basil leaves and garlic flakes add extra crunch and flavour.
• The Chiang Mai chilli and tomato relish has a good depth of flavour, with sweet, spicy and fermented notes coming through with each bite.

Tatler Tip

The three-course set dinner is great value for money at only HK$348 per head, and comprises three different mains to be shared family-style (with unlimited servings of rice), plus individual canapé starters and desserts.