Travel Back in Time through Assouline's Cartagena Grace

Born and raised in neighbouring town Cali, Ortiz was lured by the city's magic to make it her home. "So many memories lie in my soul of those times when I was discovering Cartagena," she says. The city's rich story enamoured her. She recalls the first time she strolled through the cobblestone alleys, monumental churches and plazas covered in greenery. She fondly remembers the towering stone structure, the fortifications on its shoreline, and heavy cannons still existing and acknowledged as one of its many wondrous structures. Additionally, Ortiz briefly described her wedding at the Baru Peninsula and the customs her whole family adapted to.

For Santo Domingo, it was love at first sight. On her first visit, she was immediately taken by the city's scenery, overflowing traditions and welcoming tribes. "The bougainvillea-lined streets, vendors selling a single cup of coffee, tropical trees protruding from the cracks in the pavement, the sound of horses and champeta music," she describes Ciudad Amurallada or the Walled City. She used to call herself Cartagena's unofficial tour guide because she promotes the city's arts and culture on several platforms.

Santo Domingo got married to her Colombian husband at the oldest church in the city's plaza, Iglesia de Santo Domingo. She imagined her children sharing the same enthusiasm she feels for one of the most important places in her life. Santo Domingo says she's watched many people visit Cartagena and witnessed their lives changed. But she's always claimed that the city is where her life began.

Santo Domingo similarly marvels at how the city inspires, and cites one of Colombia's greatest writers, Gabriel García Márquez. She says that she can relate to the writer's attachment to Cartagena and is enrapt with how García Márquez incorporates the city into his words, which transports her into the storyline as well.

The two Cartageneras by heart vividly defined their adoration for the city through their many beautiful memories, but not surprisingly, García Márquez said it best: "A city that they have tried to destroy for more than four hundred years, [but] I believe, is more alive than ever."

No truer words could have been said for this city that pulsates with life, day and night. With a backdrop of well-preserved buildings next to schools and street-food stalls, spontaneous dance battles commonly occur on the streets of Cartagena, giving it a festive air all year round. The advice, however, is to visit from December to April, the best time to enjoy the endless sunshine, divine beaches, local shopping and colourful culture. There are interesting events to witness as well, such as the International Music Festival and the environment-themed Hay Festival.

But if you still need a respite from the heat, step inside the souvenir store for artefacts El Arcon, the Abaco bookstore, restaurants like La Vitrola, and lifestyle stores such as Casa Chiqui. Or ride around the city on a carriage driven by a coachman, still its most popular means of transportation. Ask around and know more about Cartagena and how it came to be the must-go place today.

Santo Domingo and Ortiz collaborated on an exclusive pareo (wraparound skirt) to celebrate the book's launch. A set of limited edition pareos will be available at ModaOperandi.com, JohannaOrtiz.com, and Assouline Bal Harbour boutique.

This article was originally published in Tatler Philippines December 2022 issue.

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