Cover Pia with Aman Sveti Stefan on the background

Pia Bayot Corlette takes us through her former home country, Montenegro, and shares some tips on how to best enjoy this country in the Balkans

What do you love most about your city?

Montenegro is a tiny country on the Adriatic in Eastern Europe, just south of Croatia and across the high heel boot of Italy. Montenegro means “black mountain” in Italian, a name reflected in the mountains soaring from the sea. It’s the most dramatic landscape blessed with endearing, friendly people and a place I have called home for nearly a decade! My husband developed Porto Montenegro, and we were there until it was sold to the Sovereign Wealth Fund of Dubai in 2017.

I have had the wildest stories and adventures, but its people are what have made Montenegro part of my life forever.

What are your top restaurants, Kook hotels, and bars?

Hotels: The Aman Sveti Stefan is a dream (I had my wedding reception here and have stayed many times since). It consists of the limestone Vila Milocer that was once (the former Yugoslav president Josip Broz) Tito’s old palace as well as the Island of Sveti Stefan which was once a fishing village that was converted to a hotel. It has the most wonderful views and is all stone. It has a special magic that can’t be replicated.

Otherwise, The Regent at Porto Montenegro managed by The Intercontinental Group is buzzier and on the marina waterfront. With lovely nautical chic interiors in the heart of the marina, the hotel features the more traditional nautical wing and the more modern Miami-vibe wing.

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Above Views of Kotor Bay

Restaurants: Stari Mlini, a magical restaurant beside the sound of the rushing river. Stari Mlini means “old mill”. Traditional food, lovely ambience. Come in by boat or by car, lunch or dinner, it never fails as an experience.

Adriatica, is another standalone restaurant shaded with olive trees best accessed by boat (it has a boat shuttle regularly from Porto Montenegro).

Ribarsko Selo, this means “fishing village” and has the most wonderful shrimp and fish carpaccio with truffle, garden salads, clam pasta and baked fish. Get some beds and chill by the Capri-style “beach” area overlooking the Adriatic, no sand but jump straight into the crystal blue waters from the platforms.

Conte by Perast, located in the Venetian town of Perast, is not as highly ranked in food as the others but has the best view of the magical Lady of the Rocks.

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Photo 1 of 3 Black risotto and octopus are among the local delicacies in Montenegro
Photo 2 of 3 Oliver and Pia enjoy the unspoilt waters of the Adriatic
Photo 3 of 3 The setting at Stari Minari restaurant

For first-time travellers to Montenegro, what is a place they should not miss?

The Bay of Kotor.Rent a boat and visit the man-made Church Island called  Gospa Od Skrejpla “Our Lady of the Rocks”. Legend has it that after a storm, two fishermen found an icon of the virgin here and built Church Island. Tour the amazing little jewel of the church (where I had my wedding) and the precious museum beside it.

Go to Perast and have lunch at Conte. They have a well-mixed seafood place with risottos, grilled shrimps, and calamari. The cold octopus salad is really good here. Tour the town before or after lunch. Walk around the old town. Go into St Nicolas, the little church in the square and be sure to check out the museum connected to the church. It is really tiny and takes only five minutes to visit but worth it, with interesting artefacts such as beautifully embroidered papal looking robes and bits of saints’ bones in extravagant silver holders.

Walk to the town of Kotor in the afternoon. When not too hot and if feeling fit, climb the ancient wall to the top of the fortress for a view of the bay. Unwind at Regent Porto Montenegro for a drink and have dinner at one of the restaurants (Regent hotel or MAREA); or if you have the energy, drive an hour to the Aman and enjoy sunset and dinner.

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Above Pia and Oliver Corlette at a wedding in Porto Montenegro

What is the best place for shopping?

Undoubtedly Porto Montenegro. They have a wide range of shops from local brands to the only Dior store in Eastern Europe.

What are the best weekend markets?

Authentic local food market in front of Kotor with homemade cheeses, olives and the best figs in the world.

What is a secret place you can share?

If you fancy a hike, Vrmac is a long walk starting at the Austro-Hungarian fortress progressing onto a road along the mountain ridge with a wonderful vista of Kotor Bay on the right and Tivat Bay on the left. Another secret is a meal at Pantagana in Dobrota, a small village near Kotor. Owned by my friend, Budo, who is an amazing local character (studied physics in Rome, runs in the mountain and swims in the bay every day), it offers fantastic steak, octopus, fish, and garden salad. It’s a private restaurant full of antiques. In good weather, request a table on the punta with wonderful views of the bay. If you’re lucky, Budo will bring out his guitar and sing but he has his band there on weekends.

What’s the best time of the year to go to Montenegro?

Summer is best but for me, the best time is late June through the early part of July and late August. It’s become very busy in between.

How would you describe the people?

The locals are proud but loyal and friendly. I can go around town without my wallet and repay everyone after a week so once you have made friends, you have earned their trust for life.

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Above Lisa and Jun Bayot with their grandchildren

Where is the place to go to see and be seen?

The Lido Pool at Porto Montenegro. It’s a 50m long infinity pool consisting of black and white mosaics with a giant Jaume Plemsa sculpture and a copper frame to the sea. It is a very sexy pool!

What kind of clothes would you pack for Montenegro?

Dolce Vita type of glamour. For women, the best swimsuits and kaftans. People dress up elegantly at night. For men, linen shirts or anything with a nautical spirit.

What’s a local delicacy (food) that everyone must try?

Montenegrin cuisine is a result of its geographic position and its long history. The traditional dishes of Montenegro’s heartland and its Adriatic coast have a distinctively Italian flavour which shows in the bread-making style, the way meat is cured and dried, cheesemaking, wine and spirits, the soup and stew making style, polenta, stuffed peppers, meatballs. I would say black risotto is a fabulous must-try, the sepia infused rice with bits of cuttlefish.

Where is the best place to catch the sunset?

Anywhere. Montenegro has some of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. The terrace at the Aman at sunset transports you, or on a little boat in the middle of the sea after a wakeboarding session.


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Credits

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Pia Bayot Corlette