Cover At the Agrasen Ki Baoli, an age-old stepwell and a famous historical monument in New Delhi

With sensory overload in everything, from fragrant spices to vibrantly coloured saris, there’s certainly no forgetting India

Dosa was a rightful start to our trip through India. In a hotel as palatial as the Oberoi in New Delhi, it was unusual to begin our day with such a humble breakfast—basically, a tangy rice crepe made from fermented batter, perfect for swabbing up the chutneys it’s often served with. The dosa itself was majestic. Like India’s history, it has passed through countless mouths since 1 AD.

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If anything, our simple breakfast readied us for a full day of sightseeing with our trusty guide Prem Shukla. Passing the remarkable India Gate, a quick walk from our hotel, we found ourselves at the Red Fort, just a 15-minute drive away. Within the red sandstone walls of this architectural wonder once walked Mughal emperors. You can spot the influences of its marble, domes and floral ornamentation in the contemporary landmarks that make up New Delhi. Beyond its stately design, it also inspired a feast fit for kings at Indian Accent, what many consider India’s best restaurant. Behind the restaurant’s inventive Indian fine dining is Chef Manish Mehrotra, who’s given his country’s beloved spices a global fluency. Most memorable was the sweet refrain of Daulat ki Chaat, a traditional dessert that offers foamy lightness, nutty crunch and the chef’s cheeky spin care of the fake money fanning from its bowl.

While Indian Accent fed our appetite for what’s sparking new excitement in the local restaurant scene, travelling south through India the next few days took us further into its rich history. At the Taj Mahal, we strolled through an emperor’s enduring testimony of love to his favourite wife. In Jaipur, we travelled like kings once did. On elephants, my mum, my sister and I rode up to the opulent Amber Palace Complex that once housed the Rajput maharajahs. Each stop revealed sights once shared by rulers—or in the case of the sunken Jal Mahal palace, a partial view.

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Above Jama Masjid in New Delhi

Still, it’s the tastes of India that have really stood the test of time; the country’s potent flavours passed on through centuries. It’s also a confluence of cultures that ends up on a plate, as we witnessed at Niro’s, a legendary restaurant that’s served a mix of Indian and Chinese dishes since 1949.

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Above A lady selling lemon, ginger, turmeric, garlic, corn, gooseberries and green chillies at the Old Delhi spice market
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Above Indian snacks at the spice market in Old Delhi
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Above Mubarak Mahal (Welcome Palace) at the City Palace, Jaipur
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Above The Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur

During our stay at the Oberoi Rajvillas, we didn’t just get a taste of tradition. Through a cooking class taught by our hotel’s chef, we learnt to prepare classic Indian dishes, as well. Even more enlightening was the source of these flavours. In every country I visit, a trip to a market frequented by locals is a must. At a central market, we witnessed the locals’ culinary comforts and an overwhelming breadth of spices sold from the curb. If it wasn’t the savoury smells grabbing my attention, it was the stunning saris of women balancing produce-filled baskets on their heads.

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Above At Naila Fort, having coffee with my mum, Veronica Lorenzana, and sister, Margarita Manzke in the private home of the hotelier, Prithviraj Singh “Biki” Oberoi
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Photo 1 of 8 Raj Mahal restaurant at the Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur
Photo 2 of 8 North Indian thali (set meal)
Photo 3 of 8 A snake charmer at the Old Delhi spice market
Photo 4 of 8 The Jal Mahal (Water Palace) in Jaipur
Photo 5 of 8 Doorstep to the villa of Oberoi Rajvilas
Photo 6 of 8 Kaddi and daggi chillis
Photo 7 of 8 City Palace in Udaipur
Photo 8 of 8 Women vendors at the Udaipur market

Read also: Road Trip To Agra And Jaipur

Vibrant colours continued to greet us as we travelled onward to Udaipur, most notably at the Monsoon Palace. Once a seasonal refuge and hunting lodge for rulers of the Mewar Dynasty, the hilltop palace gave us an astounding view of the city. Seeing what a king sees is one thing, but it’s living like one that I could definitely get used to. The Oberoi Udaivillas gave us the royal treatment as soon as we stepped onto its intricately patterned marble floors. With Lake Pichola in the distance, meals were served al fresco under a beautifully patterned canopy. Perfectly manicured lawns led to courtyards with softly trickling fountains at their centre. Rather than seeing other guests, we would run into the occasional peacock gracefully exploring the indoors.

Amid such splendour, it’s not hard to imagine what waking up like an emperor was like. More so in a country that offers sensory overload with every pulsating pattern, formidable fragrance and exuberant flavour. Despite the dense smog that threatens its skies and terrorises every tourist selfie, India will always stand out in my memory.

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