Hong Kong’s oldest independent livehouse returns with a new address—and a foodie twist gig-goers might not expect
The address 54 Jaffe Road will forever be sacred among lovers of live music. For 33 years, it was the location of The Wanch, a historic venue that earned a reputation as the CBGB of Hong Kong, likened to the iconic New York music club. It stood in its namesake district of Wan Chai through the decades, weathering innumerable changes to the city and a shifting cultural landscape until pandemic restrictions prohibiting live music forced its owners to close its doors in 2020.
Now, more than 18 months later, the venue has returned at a new, larger location at 90-92 Jaffe Road, with the addition of food to fortify the business for the future. Although at the time of reopening, there was no indication of whether performances would be allowed to return in time, business partners John Prymmer and Keith Goodman went ahead with the relaunch, focusing instead on promoting their menu.
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The small size of the previous location meant gigs felt intimate, but space was an issue, and bands fought for elbow room with audience members. The new, 125-capacity venue features an entryway bar leading upstairs to a main room and larger bar area with seating for 92 people. The addition of a stage isn’t the only upgrade: this Wanch includes a full kitchen equipped with pizza and rotisserie ovens. Having a food licence will not only help the venue stay open in case of future pandemic closures; it will also bring in lunch and dinner clientele who may not have otherwise given the place a try. The pair poured substantial effort into making the food a draw, which required calling on experts. As well as recruiting chef Kwan Chu and general manager Neil Drummond, both of the now-closed Mexican restaurant Coyote, the duo worked with Neil Tomes, the group development chef for burger chain Beef and Liberty, who created a gastropub-style menu featuring elevated classics, such as a fish and chips made with vodka batter and served with edamame beans. There’s also a carefully selected wine list, and the team will work with local breweries to represent Hong Kong beers on the taps.
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“It was about keeping all the good stuff but trying to make everything a bit better,” Goodman says. “We’re confident in the music and booze space but we don’t know anything about food. I want old fans to come for the music and go away going, ‘It’s all brilliant’, and for new fans to come because it’s a nice bar with decent food and you can have a good evening.”