Altar rituals will be performed starting from the eve of the festival at Pak Tai Temple (also known as Yuk Hui Temple), where colourful shrines are set up for public worshipping. Built in 1783, this Grade I historic building is known for its green-tiled roof adorned with dragon and ceramic figures. A cavern of treasures, it houses an iron sword dated back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279), a golden crown donated by Madam Chung, a worshipper, in memory of the 1966 visit of Princess Margaret and the Earl of Snowdon, and as well as granite pillars carved with dragons in 1903.

Outside the temple, the communal sportsground will be turned into a worshipping ceremony arena during the festival, where visitors can find three elaborately decorated giant statues of King of Ghosts, the King of the Earth sheltered by a temporary bamboo shrine.

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The festival would not be complete without the famed buns. But why buns? To appease the wandering spirits by showing repentance, abstinence is practised starting from the altar rituals. Traditionally, villagers eat vegetarian “peace” buns which are made with sweet fillings, including red bean, lotus seed or sesame paste. These piping hot steamed white buns, usually bigger than a grapefruit, are stamped with the word “peace” in pink.

In the modern days, bakers get creative with their stamps, while fast food joints during the few days of the festival sometimes make mushroom patty burgers. Local eateries also offer vegetarian menus – sweet and sour made with flour and bean curd to imitate duck or chicken slices are the “jai” (vegetarian) signature.

Eating buns isn’t the only way you can gain peace – some even go as far as competing for peace. The Bun Scrambling Competition takes place on the third day after cremating the Demon King, who brings the wandering ghosts with him and ferries across the sea to the underworld, leaving the islanders in peace. At midnight, contenders climb up the 60-foot bun-covered bamboo towers to collect as many buns – thereby luck – as possible. The higher they climb, the more points the buns are worth.

The competition for luck was actually cancelled for a long time when two bamboo towers fell and injured a hundred in 1978, and it wasn’t resumed until 2005. Since then the number of contenders has been limited, and metal scaffolds and safety harness have been installed. Nowadays, only imitation buns hanging on to the towers – the real ones are distributed so that islanders and visitors don’t have to fight for them. It’s a festival of peace after all.

For those who aren’t looking for an adrenaline rush, the Piu Sik (Floating Colours) Parade is another highlight of the festival. It features young children dressed up as traditional local deities, celebrities or iconic individuals in society. There are also dazzling lion dances and drum performances which create a scene of excitement to help drive the spirits away.

Unfortunately due to COVID-19, the Piu Sik Parade and Bun Scrambling Competition will be cancelled this year, though you can still enjoy the magical creature dances and deities’ procession, as well as the bun tower displays. What’s more, you can still head over to the bamboo theatres to discover another lesser known gem activity: deity worshipping plays. These plays are performed mainly for deities to watch. Mortals are welcome to join, however. Islanders believe that this good deed of entertaining deities and celebrating their legends can earn them divine blessings. As the saying goes, pandemic or not, the show must go on.