From tableware to jewellery and even tea, three collectors share how their respective assemblage of cultural objects offer a slice of history of the region and beyond. In the second of a three part series, jewellery designer Edmond Chin expounds on why he chose to donate his collection of Island Southeast Asia jewellery that span the Neolithic period to the 20th century
The jewellery gallery at the Asian Civilisations Museum is the first permanent gallery in the world to spotlight island Southeast Asian jewellery and artefacts from the Neolithic period to the 20th century—and many of these come from the collection of Singapore-born, Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Edmond Chin, the founder and managing director of jewellery brand Etcetera. In fact, the gallery is also named after his parents Mary and Philbert Chin.
The collection consists of pieces that are more than 2,000 years old, worn by traditional societies living in insular and peninsular Southeast Asia, as well as indigenous groups and later migrants to the area such as the Peranakan Chinese. Chin explains the motivations behind his collecting and shares tips for those interested in starting a jewellery collection.
What are some of the styles and techniques that define the island jewellery you have come to collect?
Edmond Chin (EC) The jewellery of the indigenous groups in Southeast Asia is incredibly varied because of the cultural diversity of the region. For example, we see feathers and shells worn as jewellery along with trade beads and other beads made from seeds on the island of Mentawai.
Just across the straits, we have the fascinating culture of Nias, where the aristocracy was defined by the types of gold ornaments (among other things). In fact, it was believed that gold was so potent its “hot” energy had to be “cooled” by the blood of a sacrificed slave.
Northeast of the islands lies Sumatra with its highly varied societies: one of which being the Acehnese who believe in Islam, while the Batak ethnic group continued their magic practices. Not surprisingly, the jewellery of these societies reflect their beliefs, with the former using Middle Eastern techniques such as filigree and enamel, while the latter used ornaments of brass, often inlaid with symbolic materials like copper, gold and silver.
How can jewellery inform us about the past?
EC The jewellery worn in the past was very much an indicator of which social group you belonged to and your status within that group. It is also a reflection of the beliefs of the group. For example, the wedding jewellery of the Chinese is almost always decorated with auspicious motifs denoting happiness or wishes for many children, while earrings carved with cicadas (which represent rebirth) would only be used for funerary purposes.
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